The harvest of winter garlic
planted last spring
Sometimes in horticultural practice it happens that winter garlic has to be planted in the spring. If it did not pass vernalization, and the summer turned out to be hot, and at the same time the ridge is very well filled with organic matter, there is no watering, it does not rain, then in this case the bulbs may not set.
Once every seven years, I encounter such a problem. It is with this frequency that our garden is filled with water. Throughout the winter, water comes from the mountain and floods the site so that in the spring, at the beginning of April, there are not enough high boots to get to the porch of the house. Water floods everything - the house, the shed, the greenhouse, all the ridges, the roads around the site. Then it gradually goes to neighboring, lower places. After such a "flood" not a single bulb of garlic, tulips, lilies, crocuses, hazel grouses, rhizomes of peonies and other perennial plants remain. We have already experienced three such floods.
Already after the first "flood" I began to use agricultural techniques to achieve such a situation so that my stock of winter garlic would be stored until spring and would not dry out. Otherwise, in the spring you will have to look for bulbs for planting. But what other garlic will come across in such a situation ... Maybe a sick one, or maybe a southern variety. At the same time, I did not strive to ensure that the garlic preserved until spring was necessarily large, let it be medium in size, but the main thing is that it should ripen.
So last spring, our site was again under water. Not a single garlic, not a single tulip, not a single lily has survived. The garlic, which was left for food, survived in winter, and it was enough for planting. As soon as I was able to walk along the boards to the beds, I immediately dug them up with a pitchfork, chose all the rot, sprinkled the soil with ashes and planted the garlic again on April 29. The soil from above was mulched with humus.
All of them have already sprouted winter garlic, and I just planted mine. When he ascended, I fed the plantings with Azophos and Kalimagnesia. There were rains in May-June, so after each of them I tried to loosen the soil in the beds deeper.
In early June, I fed the garlic with slurry. The manure was fresh, almost without bedding. And this turned out to be my mistake, since I forgot that in the year of the Sun there will definitely be a lot of sun. The garlic has grown so much that I was scared - I will be left without bulbs, there will be only powerful stems, and it will not have time to ripen, especially since on April 29, at the time of planting, the Moon was in Scorpio, and there was also a full moon. As you know, this is a non-planting time for garlic. But after all, I needed to have time to plant the garlic in the cold, damp earth. So there was no time for the lunar calendar. After all, S.V. Kurashvili correctly wrote in her Lunar Calendar for 2010 that at this time the day feeds the year.
Nearby, the garlic in the garden beds had already thrown out the arrows at the gardeners, but I had it without arrows, which, in fact, should not be in terms of time yet. After all, my garlic was planted in the spring, and it lagged behind for a month in development. Then the neighbors had already started digging up their winter garlic, and mine had just started shooting. For the ripening of the bulbs, an optimal temperature of + 20 ... 23 ° C is required, I began to worry: will there be such weather in late August - early September for the bulbs to ripen, and the dates for autumn planting were already approaching, but he was still with arrows.
However, the bulbs of my spring-planted winter garlic turned out to be very large, I had to tinker to dry them. I somehow dried it out, took again the bulbs, one-tooth, four-tooth, which had ripened from the one-tooth, for planting. Rather, the four-tooth did not work out of the one-tooth, the bulbs immediately formed into six large cloves. This is how warmth, rains, organic matter affected.
In January of this year, I checked the garlic, and now there is a lot of it - isn't it drying? I found three onions in which one clove has dried. I looked at them through a magnifying glass - the tick is to blame. The garlic is already dry and shiny, which means that in the summer you should definitely pay attention to the plants.
For winter storage and for food, I leave smaller bulbs, the largest in the fall I spend on various preparations: for pickling mushrooms in a bucket - I put a lot of garlic there, and then in winter we eat it salty. A lot of it goes for adjika, for different salads, I roll up snacks for the whole winter. And without garlic here, as well as without onions - nowhere.
Here's another example from my practice. In the spring of 2010, when I was planting winter garlic, I put several bulbs aside, they seemed soft to me. When I peeled one onion, I did not find any disease, only the tops of the cloves turned purple stripes. I cut it across and found a green seedling. Apparently, it was a southern variety, and it was already ready to germinate. I have long wanted to try to plant garlic "naked", without scales.
She took off all the scales from the cloves and planted them separately from the garlic ridge. It turned out to be normal bulbs, but they were late in shooting. I didn’t let the shooters grow, I broke them out ahead of time. Who can benefit from this method? I think that for those who from year to year do not renew the garlic through the bulbs, but when planting "naked" teeth, specks are visible - the rudiments of the disease.
After reading this article, gardeners may think that everything is dying under my water, or rather, under the ice. This is not true. Bulbous plants suffer. Two old climbing roses (rooted) are blooming as if nothing had happened; grapes near the house bear fruit, an evergreen, creeping rhododendron (a large bush) is completely covered with water, ice, and then blooms. Black currants, raspberries, honeysuckle do not suffer. Lilacs perish under the ice, Kuril tea and phloxes suffered a little. But phlox then recovered.
head of the gardening club "Louise"
As we already remembered, winter garlic can be grown from cloves or from bulbs (in a two-year cycle). The teeth for planting need to be selected large or medium - you cannot get from small good garlic heads. Of course, the planting material must be healthy, not damaged. Even if the garlic is outwardly healthy, but it grew on an area infected with pests or diseases, you should refrain from planting it.
I usually plant garlic without pretreatment, but I read that it is advised to soak the cloves beforehand in Fitosporin solution for 5-6 minutes and spill the soil with the same solution before planting. I intend to try this year: I have already been convinced of the undoubted benefits and effectiveness of the drug in practice, so I tend to trust such a recommendation.
They are planted in prepared beds to a depth of 8-10 cm. It is advised to mulch the soil with a layer of peat or humus. With the onset of stable cold weather, I usually cover the beds with spruce branches or straw. The main purpose of such a shelter is to trap snow in the area where the garlic is planted.
Garlic is considered an important vegetable and belongs to the Amaryllis family. It has been used for many years in food preparation and for medicinal purposes. For food, take all the particles of the plant - peduncles, leaves, bulbs and even arrows.
Scientists believe that this plant is a type of onion. He is similar to him in many genetic features. Garlic was born in the mountains of Central Asia. This plant is planted in early spring or fall. Planting winter garlic in the fall is carried out according to certain rules. If you follow the technique of high-quality planting, then the harvest will be rich.
How to plant winter garlic in autumn, detailed instructions and rules
To get a crop that will consist of large, whole and even cloves, you must first determine the area for planting, check the garden bed, soil for planting cloves, select high-quality planting material and properly prepare and process the plant itself for planting.
All the rules for planting winter garlic begin with finding a place.
Choosing a landing site
Do not plant the same plant twice in a row on the same bed. It is better if before that you planted in the garden - tomatoes, zucchini, legumes, cabbage. The acidity of the soil should be stable or low. Choose a garden bed that is exposed to the sun's rays.
Disinfection of material
It is imperative to carry out processing of the seed. Soak the cloves in a solution of potassium permanganate or special vitriol for a day. This is necessary so that the garlic does not get sick later.
Garden bed preparation
Before planting a plant, it is necessary to dig up the garden bed, throw out the weeds. Plus, it's worth investing fertilizers: 40 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium chloride. Remember, don't try to feed this place with manure. Or if you used to submerge manure a lot in the ground to fertilize the precursors of garlic, you should not plant this plant there. Manure changes the acidity of the soil and saturates it with nitrogen too much, from which the tops are rubbed very abundantly, and the heads of garlic become loose.
It is forbidden to plant garlic immediately after digging the garden. Let the earth absorb all that is useful. To speed up this process, the place can be poured with water a couple of times, of course, if there is no heavy rainfall. If you plant the plant immediately after shrinkage, it will settle with the soil and end up very deep in the ground. And because of this, the shoots will germinate for a long time and poorly, the harvest will be small.
Squeezing garlic into the ground
It is forbidden to strongly press the cloves of the plant into the ground when planting. This disrupts the processes of root formation. Try to create holes with a stick to a depth of 7 cm and put cloves there, sprinkle with earth or ordinary compost on top. The distance between each hole is 10 cm.
Conclusion and conclusions
Winter garlic should be planted in the fall. During the winter periods, it adapts and hardens. In the future, it is necessary to do everything correctly: view the garden bed, the ground, process the cloves in solutions and plant them. All manipulations must be performed on time and according to the rules.
Unlike winter spring garlic, you need to plant it not in autumn, but in the middle of spring. As soon as the ground warms up a little and the soil dries out slightly, you need to take up a shovel and prepare the beds for planting. The earth is dug to the depth of a bayonet and the first weeds are selected, while at the same time humus is introduced into it to fertilize the soil and they begin to sow.
The earth is carefully loosened and rows are marked along which you will plant the teeth. Spring garlic is sealed to a shallower depth, about 5 cm, without pressing with force, but neatly into the prepared hole. The distance between them can be made a little less than with autumn sowing - somewhere 10-12 cm in a row and 15-17 cm between rows.
During the growing season, the plant can be fed with nitrogen fertilizers and weeded from weeds, you can also slightly huddle. If the weather is hot, dry, it is recommended to water, but do not overfill.
Winter garlic is harvested in early August, spring garlic - in mid-September. By the way, what is the advantage of spring - it is much better stored, although usually smaller in size.
Timely application of fertilizers will not only allow the garlic to develop well, but will also improve its protective barrier in the fight against various diseases and pests.
In the spring, winter garlic is fed three times. You should not do this more often, because such an action can cause the plants to ripen quickly, and they will not have time to gain sufficient mass.
The first spring feeding of winter garlic
It is carried out immediately after the snow melts with the onset of warm weather with positive average daily temperatures. In this case, it will be better to wait until 3-4 leaves grow on the plants. Before fertilizing, the garden bed is watered. For feeding, use a complex mineral fertilizer or ordinary urea. Fertilizers are dissolved in water (1 tbsp. L. Per 10 l) and garlic is poured (per 1 sq. M. 2 l of solution). When feeding for the first time, you should not use nitrogen. It promotes the rapid growth of green mass, but has a negative effect on the development of cloves.
Second spring feeding of winter garlic
The next stage of fertilizing for garlic comes two weeks after the first. At this time, the active growth of plants requires a large amount of vitamins and minerals, which they receive from the soil. Therefore, root feeding will be ideal. This time, a complex fertilizer is also used, but the dose is doubled (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Application of organic fertilizers will be no less effective at this moment. In particular, you can use the infusion of mullein or chicken droppings. The mullein infusion is diluted in a ratio of 1: 5 and the plants are watered. Chicken droppings must be used very carefully so as not to burn the plants. For garlic, 50 g of chicken manure diluted in 10 liters of water will be enough. If there are no fertilizers available, then they simply sprinkle wood ash on the garden bed and sprinkle it on top with a small layer of humus or fertile soil. Then the bed is watered abundantly.
Third summer dressing of garlic planted in autumn
The moment of the third feeding comes only in the second half of June, when the head of garlic is formed directly. For her, use superphosphate diluted in water (2 tablespoons per bucket of water). For 1 sq. m. plantings of garlic make 5-7 liters of solution. Earlier feeding can lead to abundant growth of arrows on the plants. To protect against pests, garlic is poured with a solution of salt (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or ammonia (25 ml per 10 liters of water). In addition to root dressings, foliar dressings can also be carried out, which consist in spraying garlic leaves. Then there is a faster absorption of useful elements by plants, but such dressings have only a temporary effect.
If the garlic plants show signs of a shortage or deficiency of certain microelements, then an unplanned fertilization can be carried out. The dosage should be chosen specifically in each case.
How and when to plant garlic in spring, we told in this article. Spring planting has many advantages, and it is more pleasant to tinker in the garden in spring. Growing this herb is a snap. The main thing is to comply with all planting dates, cultivation agrotechnics, select and prepare planting material, then an excellent harvest of a useful plant is ensured.
Harvesting and storage... Non-shooting garlic is ready for harvesting when the formation of new feathers has stopped, the feather has died, and the heads are fully formed and acquired a characteristic color.
Shooted garlic is harvested when the inflorescences are cracked and the airy bulbs begin to crumble.
On average, harvesting winter garlic for storage begins in mid-August and lasts until the first decade of September. If you are late with harvesting, then it will resume growth, disintegrate into slices and become unusable for storage.
For storage of garlic, the bulbs are well dried, cut off. The best are selected for planting, the rest are stored.